A Filipino in New Orleans

During my most recent visit to NOLA and strolling in the Quarters (French Market, Bourbon St), on numerous occasions I ran across the Philippine flag's color as backdrop to the recognizable 3 Fleur de Lis emblem of New Orleans. These flags/banners were flown by merchants in the fronts of their businesses. I wondered if these sightings are associated to comments made in past visits when people whom I met and chatted with, upon learning I am Filipino warmly volunteered “someone in my family” is Filipino (by marriage).

Reflecting on these incidences potential meaning, I read up on Filipinos in New Orleans. There is a written reference in Harper's Weekly during late 1800's (cited in Wikipedia) discussing the Manilamen along the shores. I remembered a librarian from the University of New Orleans giving a talk (during my undergraduate years) on the same topic Manilamen and their settlements near and around the Orleans Parish. These were Filipino men who off-boarded from the Spanish galleon fleet, near what we now recognize as New Orleans. My fellow countrymen settled in St. Malo, Jefferson, St. Bernard, and Plaquemines Parishes.

What does this mean for me? Beyond, I feel comfortable here. A contributing source to these feeling can be attributed to A, a dear and old friend who resettled here, and fostered my many discoveries. My first memory of New Orleans centers in waiting for her and the U-Haul’s arrival, the year before Katrina. I volunteered to drive down from Boston with her, and we agreed instead I would help her unload her belongings into her home (previously her grandmother’s) in the seventh ward. New Orleans struck me as welcoming and vaguely familiar.

Back in my stroll, I begin to wonder if the range of skin tones contributed to feelings of somehow belonging, or whether others related to my facial features, marking me as a possible inhabitant/resident past or current. Musings of a traveler who experience a sense of place like nowhere else I’ve been. Having been in many cities in the US and abroad, I find myself drawn to this place, a most ‘not American city” in the country.

Separately, I observe the relative ease in how people live their lives. Whether during the heat of summer, the temperate fall and early winter and during the holidays I’ve found myself celebrating with A, often I see families with young children and elders together. And it is not uncommon for folks to greet one another in the streets, or stores, pulling over their car and inquiring about family and kin.

On this recent trip, A and I visited many of her local haunts, including shrimp and crab palaces/shacks below the Interstate; Bullits a local dive bar where neighborhood “Creole men” can often be found; Bywater (near the Industrial Canal and old Miss river) where many local migrants resettled since it was not affected by the floods of Katrina. Changes in the immediate neighborhoods of the 7th ward are becoming apparent, more people, more street lights are lit, and roads are being repaved.

Among my cherished memories in this last visit is the taste of “Creole Tamale,” where the vendor instead of corn husk used parchment paper. Throughout my food adventures the subtle but richly spiced New Orleans style was front and center in my palate. Spicy different from hot, associated to the pepper heat, familiar to us who enjoy Mexican, Vietnamese, Indian or sometimes Thai food. Nawhlins cooking is a richly blended flavor giving the food both complexity and heat. A case in point, on the 4th, on our way to the airport, we stopped at a coworker and friend of Ginger’s for a BBQ. We sat outside, had a pile of “memorable” bbq’d chicken and pork. It was savory, sweetened by the tomato based sauce, managing to taste smoky and peppery. I chowed down as A described, noting my finger licking action, the mound of red beans and rice, and potato salad which complimented the meal.

As a traveler, I find ways to better understand inchoate impressions adding to my sense of the place. Of all the cities in the US I've seen through work and wanderings, Nawhlins stands out. Is the magic special to this place, its notable practice of Voodoo, entered my conscientiousness?

Where is Daniel? NOLA for the 4th

Need I say, I heart Nawhlins... It is humid with triple digit temperatures in the day time. The vibe easy and life is --slower. In Porgy and Bess, "summertime, when the livin is easy" obliquely refers to Southern hemisphere summers, where all effort is about exerting as little effort as necessary. I digress.

ESSENCE the biggest "Black" festival is happening in the most Not-American City in the US. There are many family reunions, celebrations, and folk coming to town and enjoy the newly minted traditional weekend. The 17th Essence Festival, music in the Superdome main stage and in the super lounge, the workshops and vendors in the Convention Center, and people along the river. The lead up was apparent at LAX, while having a pizza and Caesar’s much chatter about the Fest can be overheard. The flight to Louis Armstrong Airport was full, not surprisingly the majority are African Americans.

The Quarters (Vieux Carré) and Bourbon Street are ready associations with NOLA; more recently the lower 9th ward and Katrina; among food and jazz enthusiast the Crescent City probably have few challengers; and for Freshman's what may bring them is the open bottle "poured into a cup" policy in the Quarters.

NOLA has many neighborhoods, the (French) Quarters, Garden District, Bywater or Marigny, Uptown, and small enclaves within the wards. I favor the 7th, the dividing line and a major road is Esplanade stretching from City Park to the River. Tree lined, Creole mansions and homes stand attending to the street more gracious than the better publicize Garden District. The 6th and 7th Ward has no trolley cars, popularized by Tennessee Williams play, which served the Garden District and the French Quarters. Elysian Field however, is a familiar track, since I travel this way from my friend’s home one block from the 3rd pump house.

Fortier Park (Esplanade, Grande Rue St. John and Mystery), where the 6th and 7th ward converge, is a shady patch of grass. On Thursday's at 6pm a drumming class for local kids and adults are given. I got to experience it on Friday, since my friends who teach the class had a pre-Essence gig in the Quarters. After the drumming, we sipped wine at our once often frequented local wine bar and chatted with others in our tribe. Earlier that afternoon, A and I drove into City Park, learning many of the old Oak Trees I wanted to visit were taken down after the last Hurricane season. The park more manicured, lost the fabled "old plantation" grounds feel to the place.

Change is coming slowly into New Orleans neighborhoods, with exceptions for the insured areas in the city. The rest still hold lingering reminders of Katrina’s devastation.

NOLA Reprise

Time is flying. It's already Feb 3rd, almost a month since returning from the Southland. MLK Jr. day has passed. I carried the vacation high through the week, others commenting on how relaxed I looked.

It was a great holiday. New Years and duet Birthday Celebrations seem the perfect frame work for RnR in the Big E Z.

As I spoke of my trip, few memories and notable experiences were easy to access. The inexplicable sense of family and belonging as we visited with friends of friends, distant cousins, and neighborhoods were people lived, worked and belonged --who are remaking parts of the city.

The Musician Village, I am trying to stay focused on the positive attributes of affordable housing for musicians and others involved in the industry. They are certainly a main thread in the fabric of NOLA. One can hope for the neighborhood settles in this seemingly far-flung neighborhood with few available services.

There is no Post Office in the immediate areas of the French Quarters, Marigny, or Bywater, certainly none in the 7th ward. This is highly symbolic of how the US Government has abandoned NOLA.

The rebuild, nearly 5 years post Katrina, the population is returning slowly and rebuilding of family homes and rental is slow progress. The change is positive since last there during Gustav (2008). Exciting to watch will be the evolving style of NOLA residential architecture.

NYE, Bday, and days in NOLA

Coffee and beignets is a good way to start any year. Personally marking a half century on the planet needed to be something familiar and out of the ordinary. We strolled along the residential neighborhood of the quarters and entered a club to have a beer, it was chilly and well into the 40's when we got into the car for return drive and home. The celebration began the day before with an early afternoon tour and work out at the New Orleans Athletic Club, snacks at the Praline Connection, and Happy Hour at the Cafe Marigny (a place visited on my first trip). There is sweetness to life when allowing time to slip by, no particular destination, and being with someone you love.

Being in New Orleans, an up and coming developing world, I sense certain humility in the populace, specially the families and folk we met since arriving. Adversity and perseverance seem to go hand in hand. The Quarters, Uptown and Garden District all un-touch in a way by Katrina, feels like another world from what I see on the 7th ward. Thanks to CNN and other sympathetic "liberal" news bureau -- we saw the devastation reek by Katrina on the 9th ward. Does anyone wonder what happened to the rest of the city that lies below sea level?

I have a special connection to the 7th ward, a childhood friend lives here, re-built her house, and reputed to help others by bringing provisions till the National Guard found their way to this slip of a neighborhood. The street where she lives is a block from the Florida Canal, and walking distance to the failed 3rd pump house. Her home, an oasis in the midst of abandoned, half cockeyed homes --on foundations and not, and those clearly receiving the contractor's special is stark in contrast to more than half of the houses in the immediate surrounding blocks.

It was Angie's grandmother's house, her daddy spend most of his young life in nearby St. Bernard projects, now its her home and can claim the area as her neighborhood. The other part of the 7th ward closer to Esplanade fared better. There Swirl, Mike's coffee house thrives as the area's center, nearby laundromat, food store, and park are toe holds on normalcy.